It's Raaainnninnnngggg

So it's time for... SALAMANDEERRRSS!

Oregon Ensantina (probably)

Slender Salamander

Also (probably) an Oregon Ensantina

Product Review: Zilla Temperature Controller

 Zilla is one of top brands for reptile supplies, up there with Zoo Med, Flukers, and ExoTerra. If you're reading this, I probably don't need to tell you that. I prefer some brands over others, it really depends on what it is I'm looking for.

In the case for hobbyists and temperature control, it seems Zilla is offering the cheapest but one of my more preferred thermostats for reptile heating. In this review I'll just cover some basic ground and try to address some issues other people have had with these thermostats in the past. I also might ramble on a little. But it'll all make sense, I swear maybe.

The thermostat in the 1000-Watt package comes with a hub for 3 outlets, your plug, and a temperature node. Its temp range is between 60 and 105 degrees F, and has two indicator lights, green for it's receiving power, and red for when it turns on the heating elements. Simple enough. Green for go, red for oh shit it's sparking don't touch anything.

Making Accurate Readings

So far, I've never had a problem with the accuracy of the temperature verses what the actual temperature is. Unless you're trying to do some breeding (which then you need something a little more advanced, and if you're preparing to dump at least a grand anyway, then more accurate temps will be your best friend), it shouldn't really matter as long as it turns on and it's within the gradient you want and what your reptile needs to be safe and healthy.

For the most accurate readings, you'll want to place the node somewhere close to whatever it is you want it to read the temperature of.

If you're rigged up to a basking lamp, then you'd want it to be as close to the basking spot your reptile uses as possible, basically sitting ON the basking area. For ambient temperature, the node should be somewhere in the middle of the enclosure. Also keep in mind, the type of caging you have for your animal will also impact the temperature (screen caging vrs terrarium vrs vision cages, etc. Vision cages are actually the best tank I've ever used temp nodes in, just drill a hole somewhere in the back and it's a better aesthetic approach).

Now just to teach you I don't even follow my own advice, for basking spots I have my node about 6" under and to the side of my basking lamp on the outside of the cage. I don't want the node to be in this particular cage, because then I will have to probably buy a new one and have some unpleasant trips to the vet. For some reptiles, you simply just don't want the node sitting around inside, like with a tortoise, who will eat everything from your fingers to chords to nail polish. I am still able to maintain my temperature by checking the basking/ambient temperatures with a temperature gun, so that I make sure I am on target.

I guess if you have it, the placement of the thermometer node should be around the thermostat node, or in the target area. But honestly, if you're going to get reptiles, just buy a temp gun. They're cheap, and you can check temps of 20 cages in about 30 seconds, no hassling with other dangling chords or -- ok, I guess I'll just make a separate plug about those later.

500-Watt and 1000-Watt

When people ask me what voltage they should get, I always tell them to opt for the 1000-watt. In a way, the thermostat is acting as another layer of surge bar, and all surge bars come with a cap on the voltage they can handle.

Even if you are only pulling one or two 100-watt lamps, the greater the difference between what your controller can protect against and the amount of wattage it's actually using, the better chance you won't blow your thermostat or the surge protector.

Plus, the 500-Watt only comes with 1 outlet instead of the 3 that the 1000-watt offers, so if you end up adding more heating elements, you are able to do so.

I've only had one of these ever fry out on me in the 5 years I've been using them, and it was because an older dome was connected to it and when it fried out, it took the thermostat with it. The thermostat still turned on, but the outlet burned out. Like a surge protector, it saved me from completely tripping surge protectors and breakers and from starting a fire.

Heating Pads and Ceramic Lamps

Thermostats should only be used on heating elements, like red bulbs, ceramics, and heating pads. For heating pads and ceramic bulbs I would recommend pairing the thermostat with a rheostat.

The rheostat acts like a dimmer switch, where you can then fine-tune all your heating pads and ceramic lamps. This is mostly helpful in winter when you don't need to be giving your reptile 100 degree day heat when all it's doing it sleeping anyway. Another example is if you use too thin of a layer of substrate on the bottom of a tank and the heating pad is getting too uncomfortably hot. Etc... etc.

TL;DR

Cheap. Does what it's supposed to, if you use the node correctly.

Frog vs. Newt

This is the kind of crap I live for.

"Eat-Sleep-Herpetology" T-shirt from Cafe Press

Eat, Sleep, Herpetology. Be proud of your occupation, 
hobby, or obsession!

I really want this.

Cold Blooded

To kick off my blog, I thought I’d write a quick breakdown on the basics of what reptiles are known for the best, being “cold blooded”.

What is being "Cold Blooded"?

Being “cold blooded” is referring to an organism that gets their energy from the sun. It is a blanket term for many different adaptations that go into making an animal "cold blooded", which are otherwise known as being ectothermic, exothermic, poikilothermic, or a combination.

• Ectothermic – an organism that regulates body temperature by exchanging heat with the surrounding environment.
• Exothermic – a process which releases heat.
• Poikilothermic – having body temperature which varies with the environment.

Reptiles are actually not the only “cold blooded” animals in the Kingdom, to name a few: amphibians, fish, some mammals, and technically some birds are all “cold blooded” in some way.
An organism can be a poikilotherm, but not ectothermic. Likewise, they can be ecothermic, but not a poikilotherm, but that out of the scope of my knowledge.
Exothermic technically refers to a chemical process and is often swapped out for ectothermic, although I have a suspicion that exothermic can also refer to the role of heat in the metabolic process.

Food, Heat, and Energy

Mammals and birds have to eat in order to maintain their body temperature. Endothermic organisms gain body heat through the chemical processes used in metabolizing their food, which means energy stored in the food is being lost in the process. Ectothermic organisms who only use external heat to metabolize their food and the stored energy in their bodies means reptiles lose no energy in the metabolic process, making them more efficient.

Reptiles don’t have to eat to maintain their body temperature, unlike humans, who need to keep a constant body temperature of 98-100 degrees. As humans, if your core temperature drops below 95, then you’re considered to be going into hypothermia. Anything north of 105 degrees is heat stroke. Reptiles can survive in climates as low as 50 degrees, some reptiles can survive in upwards of 120 degree heat. Some amphibians hibernate through below freezing temperature and emerge to breed the following spring.

This energy model is brilliant for reptiles and amphibians. The environment largely determines the activity of a reptile. If it's warm outside, they burn more energy faster, but also have more energy to hunt as there are more feeding opportunities around in spring and summer such as fruit, insects, mice, whatever their diet may be. In winter, the lack of heat means they are burning less stored energy and likely live in a climate where food becomes scarce in the colder months.

Reptiles rule!